Polysorbate 20

CAS Number:

9005-64-5

Chemical Formula:

C58H114O26

Chem/IUPAC Name:

Sorbitan, monododecanoate, poly(oxy-1,2-ethanediyl) derivs

EINECS/ELINCS No:

Not specified

COSING REF No:

79318

Other Names:

Also known as Tween 20 and is classified as food additive E432

Description:

Polysorbate 20 is a non-ionic surfactant and emulsifier used in cosmetics to bind oil and water together.It enhances spreadability, is gentle on skin and hair, and is known for its foaming properties in cleansers.

Uses:

It is a versatile, water-soluble (hydrophilic) nonionic surfactant used across many product types.

· Skin Care: Used in face washes, body lotions, and creams. It acts as a surfactant to reduce surface tension for stable products, helps create foam, and attracts oil and dirt for cleansing.

· Hair Care: Found in shampoos, where it functions as a surfactant and also acts as a fragrance ingredient due to its derivation from sorbitol.

· Cosmetics: Serves as an emulsifier in foundations and mascaras, preventing oil and water-based ingredients from separating for a better texture. It is also a common solubilizer for essential oils and fragrances in water-based products.

· Prevalence: Present in approximately 5.19% of cosmetics, with particularly high use in intimate wipes (~24%), face cleansing wipes (~24%), and baby cleaning wipes (~24%)

Origin:

Polysorbate 20 is a semi-synthetic ingredient. It is produced by reacting sorbitol (a polyol derived from plant sources like fruits and berries) with ethylene oxide, followed by esterification with lauric acid (commonly from coconut or palm kernel oil). The "20" in its name represents the average number of ethylene oxide units reacted per mole of sorbitol.

What does POLYSORBATE 20 in a formulation?

Its primary functions are:

• Surfactant
• Emulsifying

Key Technical Properties:

· HLB Value: 16-17, making it an excellent oil-in-water emulsifier.

· Typical Use Level: 2% to 10% in formulations.

· Appearance: Viscous liquid that is clear, pale yellow, or yellow-green.

Safety Profile:

· Regulatory Status: The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has concluded that Polysorbate 20 is safe for use as a cosmetic ingredient when formulated to be non-irritating. It is also permitted for use in cosmetics in the European Union and is approved by the FDA for certain food uses.

· Key Safety Consideration: The main concern is potential contamination with 1,4-dioxane, a byproduct of the ethoxylation manufacturing process. Reputable manufacturers use proper filtration to minimize this contaminant, and "food-grade" or highly purified grades are available that contain zero 1,4-dioxane.

· Other Properties: It is generally considered mild, non-comedogenic (does not clog pores), and vegan.

Technical Profile:

Below are its key technical characteristics: