CAS Number:
68107-75-5.
Chemical / IUPAC Name:
Proline, 5-oxo-, zinc salt
INCI Name:
Zinc PCA
EC Number:
268-475-9
Molecular Formula:
C10H12N2O6Zn
Molecular Weight:
321.60 g/mol
Other Names:
Zinc Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid, PCA Zinc, Zincidone®
Uses:
Zinc PCA is a synthetic ingredient derived from zinc and naturally occurring PCA (Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid), a key component of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). It is valued in skincare for its multifunctional benefits, combining deep hydration with sebum control and antimicrobial action.
· Skin Care: Primarily used in moisturizers, serums, face masks, and acne treatments. It helps regulate sebum production, fights acne-causing bacteria, hydrates the skin, reduces redness and inflammation, and provides anti-aging benefits.
· Hair Care: Used in shampoos, conditioners, and scalp treatments for its antibacterial properties and ability to regulate sebum production, leaving the scalp feeling clean and hair looking healthier and smoother.
Origin
Zinc PCA is a semi-synthetic ingredient. It is produced by combining zinc (an essential mineral) with PCA (Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid), which is a naturally occurring amino acid derivative found in the skin.
What does Zinc PCA do in a formulation?
- Antimicrobial Agent: Fights acne-causing bacteria (primarily Cutibacterium acnes), helping to clear and prevent breakouts.
- Sebum Regulator: Controls excess oil production on the skin and scalp.
- Moisturising & Hydrating Agent: Deeply hydrates the skin, improving moisture retention.
- Skin Conditioning Agent: Improves skin feel, leaving it supple, smooth, and soft.
- Anti-inflammatory Agent: Reduces redness and inflammation associated with acne or other skin conditions.
Safety Profile (Critical):
· General Hazard Classification: Considered safe for topical use. The Environmental Working Group (EWG) gives it a low hazard rating (typically 1-2) .
· Concentration Limits: Typically used at 0.5 – 5.0% in cosmetic formulations.
· Irritation & Sensitization: Generally regarded as non-irritating and non-sensitizing at typical use concentrations. However, it can be slightly drying if used in large doses.
· Pregnancy Safety: No known risks related to use during pregnancy.
· Patch Test: Recommended prior to full application.
· Regulatory Status: Approved for use in cosmetics worldwide. Listed in the EU CosIng database (REF No: 38970) with functions including antimicrobial, moisturising, and skin conditioning.
Technical profile:
| Property | Values |
| Appearance | White to off-white powder |
| Purity Typically | ≥ 98% (depending on supplier grade) |
| Loss on Drying | ≤ 5.0% (typical) |
| pH (5% solution) | 5.0 – 6.0 |
| Melting Point | 240°C (decomposes) |
| Boiling Point | 454°C |
| Solubility | Soluble in water |
| Recommended Use Level | 0.5 – 5.0% in skincare and haircare formulations |