Shea Butter

CAS Number:

91080-23-8

Chemical / INCI Name:

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter

EC Number:

 293-515-7

Source:

Derived from the nuts of the African shea tree (Vitellaria paradoxa, formerly Butyrospermum parkii)

Other Names:

Shea Butter, Karite Butter, African Shea Butter, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Uses:

Shea Butter is a creamy, ivory-colored fat extracted from shea tree nuts. It is one of the most revered and widely used botanical butters in cosmetics, valued for its exceptional moisturizing, healing, and anti-inflammatory properties .

 

· Skin Care: Widely used in body butters, lotions, creams, moisturizers, and lip balms. It provides deep hydration, soothes dry and irritated skin, improves elasticity, and helps reduce the appearance of scars and stretch marks .

· Hair Care: Used in conditioners, hair masks, and styling products to moisturize dry scalp, reduce frizz, add shine, and protect hair from damage .

· Baby Care: Gentle enough for use in baby lotions, diaper creams, and rash treatments due to its soothing properties .

· Soap Making: Valued in cold-process soap making for its conditioning properties and stable, creamy lather .

· Lip Care: A popular ingredient in lip balms and lip butters for its intense moisturizing and protective benefits .

· Pharmaceuticals: Used in topical ointments and creams for eczema, psoriasis, and other skin conditions due to its anti-inflammatory and healing properties .

· Massage: Provides smooth glide and deep moisturization in massage products .

Origin

Shea Butter is a 100% natural, plant-derived butter obtained from the nuts of the shea tree, which grows in the savannah regions of West and Central Africa. The traditional extraction process involves:

 

· Harvesting: Shea nuts are collected from wild shea trees .

· Crushing: Nuts are crushed and roasted .

· Grinding: Roasted nuts are ground into a paste .

· Kneading: The paste is kneaded with water to separate the butter .

· Boiling: The butter is boiled to remove impurities and water .

· Filtering: The pure butter is filtered and allowed to solidify .

  The resulting butter is unrefined (raw) shea butter, which retains its natural ivory color, nutty aroma, and beneficial compounds. Refined shea butter undergoes additional processing (bleaching, deodorizing) to produce a white, odorless butter with longer shelf life but fewer active compounds.

What does Shea Butter do in a formulation?

  • Emollient: Softens and smooths the skin .
  • Occlusive Agent: Forms a protective barrier on the skin to prevent moisture loss .
  • Skin Conditioning Agent: Nourishes and improves skin texture .
  • Hair Conditioning Agent: Moisturizes and adds shine to hair .
  • Anti-Inflammatory: Contains cinnamic acid esters and other compounds that soothe irritated skin .
  • Viscosity Modifier: Adds body and richness to formulations .
  • Structuring Agent: Provides hardness and stability to stick products .

Safety Profile:

· General Hazard Classification: Considered safe for topical use. GRAS (Generally Recognized as Safe) for consumption .

· Irritation & Sensitization: Generally regarded as non-irritating and non-sensitizing for most skin types. Suitable for sensitive skin and babies .

· Comedogenicity: Considered non-comedogenic for most individuals (rated 0-2 on a scale of 0-5), meaning it has a low risk of clogging pores. However, some formulations with high concentrations may be problematic for very acne-prone skin .

· Allergenicity: Latex allergies may cross-react with shea butter in rare cases, though this is uncommon. Individuals with tree nut allergies should exercise caution, though shea butter is generally considered safe as it contains only trace amounts of protein .

· Grades:

  · Unrefined (Grade A): Raw, natural, ivory color, nutty aroma, highest nutrient content .

  · Refined: White, odorless, longer shelf life, fewer active compounds .

  · Ultra-Refined: Highly processed, very white, odorless, primarily used for texture .

· Storage: Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. It softens at body temperature, making it ideal for skin application .

· Shelf Life: Unrefined shea butter typically lasts 1-2 years; refined versions last 2-3+ years .

· Regulatory Status: Approved for use in food, cosmetics, and pharmaceuticals worldwide .

Technical profile:

PropertyValues
AppearanceSoft, creamy solid - ivory to pale yellow (unrefined) or white (refined)
OdorNutty, earthy aroma (unrefined) or odorless (refined)
Acid Value≤ 1.0 mg KOH/g (refined); ≤ 4.0 mg KOH/g (unrefined)
Peroxide Value≤ 5.0 meq/kg
Iodine Value55 - 70 g I?/100g
Saponification Value170 - 190 mg KOH/g
Unsaponifiable Matter5 - 17% (exceptionally high, rich in antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds)
Melting Point32 - 45°C (90-113°F) - melts on skin contact
Specific Gravity0.90 - 0.92 at 40°C
Refractive Index1.462 - 1.468 at 40°C
Flash Point240°C (> 464°F)
Solubility

Insoluble in water; soluble in oils and organic solvents

Fatty Acid Profile Oleic Acid (~40-60%), Stearic Acid (~35-45%), Palmitic Acid (~3-8%), Linoleic Acid (~4-8%)

Shelf Life1-3 years depending on grade and storage
Recommended Use Level1 - 100% (can be used as a base butter)