Methyl Glucose Dioleate (PEG 120)

CAS Number:

86893-19-8

Chemical / INCI Name:

PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate

Molecular Formula:

(C2H4O)120(C2H4O)120C43H78O8 (a complex polymer)

EC Number:

617-932-4

Other Names:

Methyl Gluceth DOE-120, Polyethylene Glycol (120) Methyl Glucose Dioleate, Ethoxylated Methyl Glucose Dioleate

Uses:

It is a high molecular weight, non-ionic surfactant derived from natural methyl glucose and oleic acid . It is a multi-functional ingredient prized for its exceptional mildness and ability to build viscosity in aqueous systems .

· Skin Care: Used in lotions, creams, facial cleansers, and micellar waters as an emulsifier and thickener. It forms a thin, protective barrier on the skin that prevents moisture loss, leaving it softer and healthier .

· Hair Care: Used in clear and pearlescent shampoos, anti-dandruff shampoos, conditioners, and bath gels. It acts as a mild surfactant, thickener, and conditioning agent, leaving hair soft and silky .

· Baby Care: Its exceptionally mild, non-irritating nature makes it ideal for use in baby shampoos, lotions, and creams

Origin

PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate is a semi-synthetic compound. It is manufactured via the transesterification of an appropriate fatty acid methyl ester with methyl glucoside . It is derived from natural sources like corn and palm, but the ethoxylation process (adding the PEG chain) is typically a petrochemical process .

What does PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate do in a formulation?

• Viscosity Modifier / Thickener: A primary function is to increase the viscosity of surfactant-based systems like shampoos and body washes .
• Emulsifying Agent: Helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions, preventing the oil and water components from separating .
• Surfactant: Acts as a cleansing agent, helping oil-trapped dirt to mix with water and be rinsed away .
• Skin and Hair Conditioning Agent: Provides a soft, silky feel and improves moisture retention .
• Irritation Mitigator: Its high molecular weight makes it impenetrable to healthy skin, and it can reduce the overall irritation potential of a formulation .

Safety Profile:

· General Hazard Classification: Considered safe for use in cosmetics . The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) has issued industry recommendations for its safe use . It is classified as a low hazard for cancer, allergies, and reproductive toxicity .

· Mildness: It is exceptionally mild and non-irritating, making it suitable for sensitive skin, hypoallergenic products, and baby care .

· Purity Concern: As an ethoxylated ingredient, it has a high potential for contamination with toxic impurities like 1,4-dioxane or ethylene oxide during manufacturing. High-quality manufacturers utilize purification processes to minimize these residues .

· Regulatory Status: Approved for use in cosmetics worldwide. Compliant with standards like Halal, RSPO, and China's IECIC .

Technical profile: