CAS Number:
81646-13-1 (for the active ingredient)
Molecular Weight
~479.8 g/mol
Chemical / INCI Name:
Behentrimonium Methosulfate
Molecular Formula:
C26H57NO4S
Other Names:
BTMS 80, Docosyltrimethylammonium methyl sulfate, Behenyltrimethylammonium Methosulfate, C22-Trimethylammonium Methosulfate
Uses:
Behentrimonium Methosulfate (BTMS 80) is a cationic surfactant and quaternary ammonium compound specifically designed for hair and skin care applications. It is widely recognized as a natural-derived, eco-friendly alternative to traditional quats like Cetrimonium Chloride. The "80%" indicates it is typically supplied as a mixture with 20% cetearyl alcohol (or other fatty alcohols) to enhance its conditioning and emulsifying properties .
· Hair Care: The primary use is as a premium conditioning agent in rinse-off conditioners, hair masks, leave-in treatments, and shampoos. It provides exceptional detangling, antistatic properties (frizz reduction), and leaves hair feeling soft, silky, and manageable without weighing it down .
· Skin Care: Functions as an emollient and emulsifier in creams, lotions, and balms, imparting a smooth, velvety after-feel to the skin .
· Mechanism: Its cationic (positively charged) nature allows it to bind to the anionic (negatively charged) surfaces of damaged hair and skin, providing substantive conditioning and moisturizing benefits .
Origin:
BTMS 80 is a vegetable-derived, semi-synthetic compound. It is manufactured by reacting behenyl alcohol (derived from rapeseed or other vegetable oils) with dimethyl sulfate. The 80% active form is typically blended with cetearyl alcohol (also plant-derived) to create a convenient, self-emulsifying base .
What does Behentrimonium Methosulfate 80% do in a formulation?
- Antistatic Agent: Reduces static electricity and frizz .
- Hair Conditioning Agent: Provides slip, detangling, and softness, especially effective for damaged or dry hair .
- Emulsifying Agent: Helps create stable oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions without the need for additional emulsifiers .
- Emollient & Skin Conditioning Agent: Softens and smooths the skin .
- Surfactant (Cationic) .
Safety Profile:
· General Hazard Classification: Considered safe and mild for use in cosmetics. It is significantly less irritating than traditional quats and is often used in "sulfate-free" and "natural" formulations .
· Biodegradability: Readily biodegradable and environmentally friendly .
· Irritation & Sensitization: Generally regarded as non-irritating and non-sensitizing to skin and eyes at typical use concentrations (1-5%). The presence of fatty alcohols in the blend further reduces irritation potential .
· Toxicity: Low acute toxicity. Not classified as hazardous under normal use conditions .
· Regulatory Status: Approved for use in cosmetics worldwide. Compliant with COSMOS, NaTrue, and Ecocert standards for natural and organic cosmetics .
Technical profile:
| Property | Values |
| Appearance | White to off-white pastilles, flakes, or pellets |
| Active Content | 80% Behentrimonium Methosulfate Co-Surfactant ~20% Cetearyl Alcohol (or other fatty alcohols) |
| Odor | Faint, characteristic fatty odor |
| Amine Value | ≤ 5.0 mg KOH/g |
| Water Content | ≤ 2.0% |
| Melting Point | 60 - 75°C (140-167°F) - Requires heating for incorporation |
| pH (1% dispersion) | 3.0 - 5.0 (slightly acidic) |
| Solubility | Dispersible in hot water; soluble in hot oils and alcohols |
| Flash Point | 100°C (> 212°F) - Not considered flammable |
| Recommended Use Level | 1 - 5% in hair care formulations; 0.5 - 3% in skin care products |